2025-10-05 Back Home Again in Morocco

We went back to Canada for the summer, and are now back on the boat, in Tangier. Our daughter Joana (and her boyfriend) went to Marrakesh for a wedding last week, so we drove down to link up with them.

Although Morocco has very good train service, we chose to rent a car and drive (a distance of nearly 600km each way) – primarily because we wanted to stop off at the capital city Rabat on the way home. Rabat has a very good marina called Marina Bouregreg Salé. We “may” go there at some time in the future, so it’s a good idea to scope it out ahead of time.

In both Salé and Rabat, we took a very modern and cheap tram.

On the outskirts of Rabat (actually in Salé ), we drove past the Mohammed VI Tower. It is a 55-story, 250-metre (820 ft) skyscraper, noteworthy as currently the tallest building in Morocco and the third tallest in Africa. The structure houses a Hilton hotel, offices, residential and retail space.

The highways are very well constructed and maintained. There seemed to be a rest stop with fuel and restaurant services at least every 50km. Most of the best highways are toll roads, but I did not find it expensive. It probably cost about 20-25 euros each way for the tolls (cash only).

As we were driving south along the very good motorways, I wondered why Marrakesh even exists. Marrakesh sits at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, in a fertile plain near the Tensift River, providing access to water and arable land. Its position made it a natural hub for trade routes connecting the Sahara, the Atlas Mountains, and Morocco’s northern regions. Historically, Marrakesh linked sub-Saharan Africa with the Mediterranean, facilitating commerce in goods like gold, salt, and spices.

The area’s oasis-like environment, with palm groves and natural groundwater, supported agriculture and settlement in an otherwise arid region. This made it a sustainable spot for a city. This is a view from one of the wealthy suburbs of Marrakesh.

The city of Marrakesh was founded around 1070 CE by the Almoravid dynasty, a Berber Muslim dynasty. The Almoravids, under their leader Abu Bakr ibn Umar, chose the site to establish a new capital for their growing empire. The city’s name likely derives from the Berber phrase mur akush, meaning “Land of God.” Under the Almoravids and later the Almohads, Marrakesh grew into a major political, economic, and cultural center. Iconic structures like the Koutoubia Mosque (built in the 12th century) cemented its status.

Together with Joana and Arend, we stayed in a “riad”, a traditional Moroccan house or mini palace with an interior garden or courtyard, often associated with the medinas (historic walled cities) of Morocco. The term “riad” comes from the Arabic word for garden, “ryad.” A riad is characterized by a central courtyard, typically open to the sky, surrounded by rooms on multiple levels. The courtyard often features a fountain, pool, or garden, providing a serene, private space.

Riads reflect Morocco’s architectural heritage, blending functionality with aesthetic beauty. They are designed to offer privacy, coolness in the hot climate, and a tranquil retreat from bustling urban environments like the medinas of Marrakesh, Fez, or Rabat.
Windows and balconies face the courtyard rather than the street, ensuring privacy and aligning with cultural values of modesty. There is often intricate stucco work, carved wooden doors, and colourful tile work, the hallmarks of riad interiors.

This was our dining room and living room.

Thick walls and shaded courtyards help regulate temperature in Morocco’s hot climate. A traditional lime-based plaster is used for the walls, known for its waterproof and polished finish, often seen in bathrooms or on courtyard surfaces. Handcrafted ceramic tiles arranged in geometric patterns, are used for floors, walls, and fountains.

Cedar or other local woods are used for doors, ceilings, and mashrabiya (latticed screens) for both decoration and ventilation. Riads often follow a symmetrical layout, with rooms arranged evenly around the courtyard. The open courtyard allows air circulation, while thick walls retain coolness. Fountains or pools add humidity to combat dry desert air.

We had several meals out, in the riad complex.

Riads are most common in Morocco’s historic medinas, particularly in cities like Marrakesh, Fez, Rabat, Meknes, and Essaouira. Marrakesh, where we stayed, is renowned for its riads, many of which have been converted into boutique hotels or guesthouses. Originally, riads were homes for wealthy families, merchants, or nobility. They symbolized status and provided a private oasis in crowded urban settings.

Estimates suggest thousands of riads exist in Morocco’s medinas, with Marrakesh alone having hundreds converted for tourism. Similar courtyard homes, often called dars or qasrs, exist in Algeria, Tunisia and throughout the Middle East.

In downtown Marrakesh, of course we went to the medina and the souk.

We had a very traditional dinner, and even got dressed up for the part.

Joana revealed that she does have a soft spot for cats as well.

Of course, there is always some boat work to do. We completely took apart our bed in the aft cabin before leaving for Canada. The queen sized mattress had a small bit of mould on the underside, and we decided to do an upgrade. We ordered a product (MODULOFLEX) through the local chandlery, made in France, which lifts the mattress up and provides for air circulation. On returning to Tangier, we easily installed this product under the mattress.

Finally, this is a photo of our Moroccan friend Rèda Omarat. His pregnant wife Jasmine is away visiting her family, so we had him over for lunch on Sunday – and gave him gifts of “our favourite maple cookies” and “maple syrup”. He is one of only a few people we know here, and is now immortalized on the Internet.